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Destinations    Mongolia

Mongolian Serengeti

 

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  Mongolian Serengeti
Trip Details

 

At the eastern edge of the Gobi Desert, Sukhbaatar province is one of the least visited and least interesting parts of Mongolia. Almost the entire aimag is flat grassland - there are no forests at all, and only a few hills masquerading as mountains. The sparsely populated province is named after Sukhbaatar, the canonised hero of the communist revolution of 1921.

The one of the most interesting things about Mongolia is the degree to which local nature have been preserved. You can travel for days and see almost no signs of human presence. It is probably the last non-African country where you can observe large herds of various wild animals migrating freely outside Nature reserves.

Mongolian grassland
Mongolian grassland 

Eastern Mongolia is the last place where temperate grasslands still exist in their natural state. This type of vegetation have once covered large portions of Eurasia, North America and Argentina. In our days, shortgrass prairies (also called dry steppes) still survive in Patagonia, The Great Plains and Kazakhstan (where they are mostly used as pasturelands). But the most beautiful and productive grasslands, tallgrass prairies (or blacksoil steppes) have all been converted into fields, except for tiny nature reserves. Central and Eastern Mongolia is your last opportunity to see the endless sea of emerald-green grass with no utility poles anywhere in sight.

Grasslands become especially beautiful in late spring, when many species of bunchgrasses start spreading their seeds. Splendid (Stipa pulcherrima), Siberian (S. zalesskii), fluffy (S. pennata) and dwarf (S. capillata) feathergrasses turn Mongolian plains and foothills into the endless silvery sea of soft, tender awns. Summers are not as dry here as in other parts of Central Asia, so the grasses do not turn yellow until September.

Hulan
Hulan 
When you travel throught Eastern Mongolia, always keep your eyes open for wild animals. Zeer, or Mongolian gazelle (Procapra gutturosa) can be seen in groups of up to five thousands. A smaller ada, or Ordos gazelle (P. przevalskii), used to occur in southeastern Mongolia. Both can run at 60 km per hour. Further south, the harasult, or Persian gazelle (Gazella subgutturosa) is more common. Hulan, or wild ass (Equus hemionus) is also widespread, mostly in the east and south.






Dariganga

Dariganga village in the south-east of Sukhbaatar is by far the most interesting place in the province to visit. Famous for its silversmiths and blacksmiths. Friendly Dariganga is also where the sand dunes of the Gobi and the grassy plains of the northern steppe converge to create what looks like thousands of hectares of perfect natural golf courses - but don't let any developer know! To reach the sights in the area you will need a jeep and a good driver or guide. It's the only way to, firstly, get to Dariganga village (also known as Ovoot), and then to explore the lakes, volcanoes, mountains, sand dunes and ancient stones nearby. The sacred mountain of Shiliin Bogd is also not too far away.


Altan Ovoo

The skyline of Dariganga is dominated by Altan Ovoo (Golden Ovoo), a wide former crater topped by a new stupa which only men are allowed to visit. The stupa was built in 1990 on top of the ruins of the original BatTsagaan stupa, which was built in 1820 and destroyed in 1937. In the area around Altan Ovoo, there are dozens of broken balbal - their exact origins are not clear. According to local tradition, you should place an offering of food in the cup held in the statue's left hand. There are also three balbals known as the king, the queen and the prince, in the north edge of town, near some hay sheds.


Mountain Shiliin Bogd

At 1778m, Shiliin Bogd, about 70km East of Dariganga, is the highest peak in Sukhbaatar aimag. The extinct volcano is sacred to many Mongolians: the spirit of any man (and man only!) who climbs it, especially at sunrise, will be revived. Shiliin Bogd offers one of the greatest sunrises in a country full of great sunrises.

On the road between Dariganga and Shiliin Bogd, 8km past Ganga Nuur, look out for the new statue of Toroi-Bandi, the 'Robin Hood' of Mongolia, who had a habit of stealing the horses of the local Manchurian rulers, then eluding them by hiding near Shiliin Bogd Mountain. The statue, dedicated in 1999, pointedly faces China.


Talyn Agui (Cave of the Steppe)


Taliin Agui, 15km north-west of the mountain, is one of the largest caves in Mongolia. If the ice covering the entrance has melted (it's normally covered until August) you can squeeze through the narrow entrance. The large, and a little claustrophobic cave has seven chambers to explore.



Natural Reserve of Lhachinvandad Mt.

If you are visiting Mountain Shiliin Bogd by jeep, you may wish to carry on East for another 120km to the 58,500 hectare Natural Reserve of Lhachinvandad Mountain, on the border with China. This reserve contains Lhachinvandad Mountain (1233m) and is full of gazelle and elk.
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